Mated Queen Bees

Tag Archive for: Mated Queen Bees

How to Know if a New Queen is Accepted

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Introducing a new queen bee to a hive is a delicate dance in the intricate world of beekeeping. While the queen plays a vital role in the colony’s health and productivity, her acceptance by the worker bees is far from guaranteed. So, how do beekeepers know if their new queen has been embraced or rejected? The answer lies in a symphony of subtle signs and observations.

Egg Laying:

The ultimate test of acceptance is egg-laying. A laying queen will begin depositing eggs within 2-3 days after release from the cage. Beekeepers will meticulously inspect the brood frames for the telltale signs of tiny white eggs, a surefire confirmation that the new queen is doing her job.

Colony Behavior:

Other behavioral changes can also reveal the queen’s fate. A generally calm and active hive with a steady flow of pollen and nectar suggests acceptance. Conversely, a listless or agitated colony with dwindling resources could indicate rejection and potential swarming behavior.

Visual Cues:

An indication of acceptance comes by observing the bees’ behavior around the queen herself. If the bees remain calm and curious around the queen, it’s a positive sign. Bees attending to the queen and offering food is a good indicator of acceptance. Conversely, aggressive buzzing, or even balling the queen are clear signs of rejection.

While not foolproof, some physical characteristics can also offer clues. A queen readily accepted by the bees will often be sleek and shiny, with a well-defined abdomen. A queen who has been attacked or rejected might appear injured or have clipped wings.

Additional Tips for Success:

  • Choose the right queen: Select a healthy, young queen from a reputable breeder, such as Wildflower Meadows.
  • Proper introduction: Use a queen cage and follow the specific introduction method recommended for your chosen hive style.
  • Minimize stress: Avoid introducing the queen during cold weather or when the hive is already stressed.
  • Patience is key: Acceptance can take time, so be patient and allow the colony to adjust to the new queen.

By deciphering the subtle signals of the bees and employing these tips, beekeepers can increase their chances of successful queen introductions and ensure the continued prosperity of their hives. Remember, a thriving colony starts with a well-accepted queen, and understanding the language of acceptance is a crucial skill in the art of beekeeping.

So, the next time you introduce a new queen, keep your eyes and ears peeled for these telltale signs. The bees will whisper their acceptance, and you’ll be able to celebrate the harmonious hum of a thriving colony.

How Long Can a Honeybee Colony Live When a Queen Dies?

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The honeybee hive is a complex and intricate society, with each member playing a vital role in its survival. At the heart of this society lies the queen bee, the sole female capable of reproduction. Her presence is essential for the colony’s continued existence, as she lays the eggs that will give rise to the next generation of bees.

When a queen bee dies, the hive enters a state of turmoil. The queen’s pheromones, which regulate the colony’s behavior, begin to fade, and the worker bees become agitated and confused. This disruption can have a devastating impact on the hive’s ability to function effectively.

In response to the queen’s demise, the worker bees initiate the emergency queen rearing process. They select a few worker bee larvae, typically between five and eight days old, and begin feeding them royal jelly, a special nutrient-rich food that is typically reserved for the queen. This special diet stimulates the larvae’s development and transforms them into potential queens.

The worker bees construct special queen cells, which are elongated and hang vertically from the honeycomb. Each potential queen develops within her own queen cell. Once the queens reach maturity, they emerge from their cells and engage in a series of “virgin flights” to mate with male drones.

The success of the emergency queen rearing process is crucial for the hive’s survival. If the new queen fails to mate or if she is killed by the other queens, the colony will eventually die out. This is because worker bees are sterile and cannot lay fertilized eggs, which are necessary for the production of female worker bees.

In some cases, the emergency queen rearing process may fail, and the colony may become queenless. In these situations, beekeeper intervention may be necessary to save the hive. Beekeepers can introduce a new mated queen from a reputable source, such as Wildflower Meadows, or they can combine the queenless colony with another colony that already has a queen.

Without a queen, the colony’s population will gradually decline as older bees die off and there are no new replacements. The colony may also become more susceptible to diseases and pests. In some cases, the worker bees may start to lay their own unfertilized eggs, which will only produce male drones. This will further hasten the colony’s demise.  Usually a colony can survive no longer than a few months without a queen.

The loss of a queen bee is a critical event for a honeybee hive. If the hive is able to successfully rear a new queen, it can survive and continue to thrive. However, if the queen rearing process fails or if the colony remains queenless for too long, the hive will eventually perish. Beekeeper intervention can play a vital role in helping queenless colonies survive, but ultimately, the fate of a hive without a queen is a delicate balance between chance and intervention.

Unveiling the Mystery of Honeybee Queen Piping: A Symphony of Communication

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The intricate world of the honeybee holds many secrets, and among them lies the fascinating phenomenon of queen piping. This high-pitched sound, produced by both virgin and mated queens, plays a crucial role in the colony’s social dynamics and queen succession.

A Cry for Attention:

Fully developed virgin queens engage in a series of vibratory signals known as “quacking” while still inside their queen cells. This acoustic communication serves as a declaration of their existence and readiness to compete for the coveted role of the colony’s queen. Once they emerge, these queens transition to emitting “tooting” sounds, continuing their vocal pronouncements to the colony.

Mated queens, though not as vocal, may also be heard piping briefly after being introduced to a new hive. This act is believed to be a form of introduction, informing the worker bees of their arrival and establishing their claim as the colony’s rightful ruler.

Queenly Battle Cry or Call to the Colony?

The exact purpose of queen piping remains a subject of debate. Traditionally, it was interpreted as a battle cry, a challenge issued to other queens in the hive, announcing their presence and readiness to fight for dominance.

However, recent research suggests a more nuanced understanding. Scientists now believe that piping is primarily a signal directed at the worker bees rather than a declaration directed at rival queens. The queen uses this vocalization to announce her presence, assert her fitness, and ultimately sway the workers to support her reign.

A Queenly Symphony in the Wildflower Meadows Shipping Room:

Beekeepers frequently encounter piping when dealing with multiple queens at once. During queen banking, where numerous queens are housed together in a confined space, the piping becomes a noticeable and rather loud symphony. Here at Wildflower Meadows, as we prepare orders, the queens in the shipping room become aware of each other’s presence, leading to a chorus of piping that intensifies with their number.

Even during transportation, the piping persists. As the queens journey to UPS, their collective calls fill the air. However, once separated during the shipping process, the piping ceases, signifying the end of their temporary communication network.

A Glimpse into the Queen’s Mind:

While the precise meaning of queen piping remains under investigation, it undoubtedly plays a crucial role in the queen’s communication strategies. Whether it’s a declaration of dominance or a call for worker support, this vocal behavior offers a valuable window into the complex social dynamics of the honeybee hive. As our understanding of this phenomenon evolves, we gain a deeper appreciation for the intricate communication systems that underpin the success of these remarkable creatures.

How to Hold and Mark a Queen Honeybee

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At Wildflower Meadows, we regularly need to hold and handle the queens we are raising. For example, queens must be caught and put into their traveling cages. In addition, they need to be held for marking, and sometimes, they need to be placed above or below a queen excluder for various reasons.

Beekeepers, especially new beekeepers, often wonder how to do this without damaging the queen or getting stung.

Handling a queen requires a bit of dexterity and concentration underneath abundant care and compassion for the queen herself. The beekeeper must always be careful. From a queen honeybee’s perspective, we beekeepers are clumsy giants that can injure fragile body parts with the slightest erroneous move. The queen honeybee is a small and delicate creature—and we should never forget that.

A queen honeybee has three main parts to her body: the head, thorax, and abdomen. If a queen is to be handled, the beekeeper must know that the most robust part of her body is her thorax, which is the hard, dark area that separates her head from her abdomen. On the other hand, the most sensitive parts of the queen are her head and her long, delicate abdomen. A queen bee’s abdomen is soft, fragile, and filled with all the queen’s vital reproductive parts. When a beekeeper mishandles a queen, it is most often because they apply pressure on the abdomen. This must be avoided. The best place, by far, to hold a queen is by her thorax.

Surprisingly, a queen’s wings are sturdy. Holding her by her wings is the next best way to grasp a queen. A skilled beekeeper can safely pick up a queen by grasping her two wings together without putting pressure on any other body part. This is typically how our beekeepers here at Wildflower Meadows handle queens for marking, as it leaves the thorax exposed for the mark.

If a queen bee is picked up by the wings, she may start to squirm. However, if she is given a soft and comfortable surface to place her legs on, she will hold her body still and relax. When marking a queen, we typically grasp the two wings, then encourage the queen bee to rest her legs either on one of our other fingers (usually the ring finger) or on our thigh. Once her feet are grabbing onto something, her demeanor becomes relaxed. It is then easy to mark her thorax.

For beekeepers who want to handle their queen bees for marking, a trick of the trade is to learn to pick up a queen with one’s nondominant hand (the left hand for a right-hander). This frees the writing hand to draw the mark with greater dexterity and control. Once the queen is marked, placing her into a cage is relatively straightforward by guiding the top half of her body into the hole of the cage. If over half of her body is already through the hole, she almost always naturally follows through and enters on her own when released.

Queen honeybees are exceptionally gentle and non-aggressive with beekeepers. For all intents and purposes, they don’t seem to ever want to sting people. Even though a queen bee has a stinger, which she doesn’t hesitate to use against other queen bees, the likelihood of her stinging a beekeeper is almost zero. We have beekeepers here at Wildflower Meadows who have handled tens of thousands of queens and have not ever been stung a single time by a queen honeybee!

Queenlessness

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For most of its life, a honeybee colony has an active and well-accepted queen bee, which the colony rallies around. The queen herself, with her unique pheromone signature, is a key component of binding a colony together.

There are times, however, when a colony finds itself without a queen bee. This is known as queenlessness.

A honeybee colony can lose a queen for several reasons. Like any living creature, a queen honeybee is vulnerable to sickness, injury, old age, etc. But queen honeybees, being insects, are also vulnerable to the peculiarities of the insect world. Sometimes a colony intentionally kills its queen due to a disruption in pheromone signatures or some other environmental stress. Sometimes another virgin queen will appear—perhaps the colony raised another queen bee. An eventual fight to the death is almost guaranteed if a virgin queen emerges.

From both the beehive’s and beekeeper’s perspectives, queenlessness is precarious. The colony’s days are numbered if it cannot get a queen going. Time is of the essence. The longer a colony remains queenless, the greater its odds of perishing become.

When a colony suddenly goes queenless, it has only four or five days to raise a new queen. A queenless colony needs young worker bee larvae to raise a new queen. Once a queen is lost, there remains only a four- or five-day period in which young worker larvae will be present in the hive. After this period, all the larvae will be too mature for queen-raising.

A honeybee colony detects queenlessness when the queen’s pheromone disappears. This happens amazingly quickly. It usually takes a colony only about four to five hours to discover that no pheromone is being shared and that the colony is now without a queen. This is when the colony begins an agitated buzzing sound known as a queenless roar. Likely, this roar is an additional and urgent signal that queen-rearing must start, and it must begin immediately.

An experienced beekeeper can use this telltale roar (or its absence) as an essential tool when conducting a hive inspection. Another telltale sign of queenlessness is the disorganization of the bees. The bees have little to rally around in a colony with no queen and, eventually, no larvae. The colony has no larvae to feed, so the nurse bees wander around aimlessly.

As part of any bee inspection, a beekeeper should always be on the lookout for queenlessness and its telltale signs. Here at Wildflower Meadows, our beekeepers know that anytime a colony is roaring, or the bees appear disorganized, a further inspection is in order.

How to Find the Queen Bee

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Do you struggle with finding a queen bee?  Don’t be too hard on yourself.  Even here at Wildflower Meadows—with all our experience and years of beekeeping—we occasionally find ourselves scratching our heads, wondering why such a simple task can sometimes be so challenging.

Before you set out on your search, make sure you even need to find the queen. As a beekeeper, unless you are working for Wildflower Meadows or raising queens, you don’t have to look for a queen that often. The main reason for having to locate a queen is when you wish to requeen. In that case, you have no choice but to find the old queen to remove her.

Another possible reason to find a queen is when you want to divide a colony or transfer frames of bees from one colony to another. Surprisingly, even when dividing colonies and transferring frames, you don’t always have to find the queen. So, for example, look at this video, and you will discover a straightforward way of dividing a colony without even having to look for the queen.

Patience, persistence, focus, and relaxation are the key to finding a queen bee. When searching for a queen, the first tip we suggest is to be patient with yourself. Finding a queen is a skill that a beekeeper develops over time.

A helpful strategy is to play the odds. The queen will most likely be near the center of the brood nest, particularly on frames with open cells for her to lay in. That’s her preferred area because, after all, she’s the one laying the brood. However, always keep in mind that queens do move around. Sometimes you will be surprised to discover your queen bee in the strangest place – on the lid, walking on the honey, or cruising around inside the box. She can wander anywhere. However, more often than not, odds are she’s hard at work laying eggs in the general brood area. Why not start there?

Nevertheless, before diving into this promising brood area, it’s best to remove and inspect a frame or two at the ends of the hive. Start with a quick check of the end frames (not to mention the lid) and set those aside. Why? By doing this, you will free up some working space and gain space to comfortably separate the remaining frames in the hive. Now you can focus on the high-probability areas.

You want to relax your vision. A soft and relaxed vision will enable you to spot something that looks just a little different. Also, remember that sometimes, your eyes will pick up the unusual pattern of the queen’s retinue, which will naturally direct you to the right spot. If you’re a beginner, after checking each side of a frame, pause, take a quick break, then give both sides of the frame a second look. This saves time in the long run because missing a queen right in front of you will waste time when you fruitlessly look through all the remaining frames.

Keep a routine going. Have a systematic approach to each frame, so you don’t overlook areas. For example, you can begin at the top of the frame, scanning down the frame from left to right. Or you can start at the left of the frame and scan up and down across the frame. Just be thorough and consistent.

Be mindful of the conditions around you. This is crucial since you will hold the frames outside the hive for some time. If there is robbing in the apiary, use a robbing cloth. If the weather is chilly, you must work relatively quickly to keep the brood from chilling. If conditions are sunny, be mindful of keeping the frames exposed to direct sunlight for too long, as prolonged sunlight can dry out the larva and damage the brood. Also, queen bees tend to avoid the sun, so holding a frame up to the sunlight can encourage a queen to run to the other side of the frame, and you can miss her altogether.

Understand that there will be times when you just can’t find the queen bee and strike out. This is normal and happens even to experienced beekeepers. We would advise that you probably don’t want to disturb the colony after two rounds of searching. It is best to call it quits, put everything back together, and come back another time.

Spring Requeening

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Although there are advantages to requeening a colony in the summer or fall, traditionally, beekeepers requeen colonies in the spring. One of the best reasons to requeen early in the season is to prevent swarming. Spring requeening reduces a colony’s tendency to swarm because, generally, colonies with very young queens tend to settle in with their new queen. It is older queens that are more likely to swarm. Why? Perhaps the new and young queen’s powerful pheromones signal the colony to keep her in place. Also, the requeening can distract a colony from swarming—at least while the new queen is being accepted.

A distinct advantage of installing a new queen in the spring is that a young queen brings enthusiastic and youthful energy into the hive at the very start of the season. This recipe for vigorous egg-laying leads to large population growth before the honey flows down the road. It’s perfect timing. This also means that the colony’s population should stay considerably large heading into the later part of the year and winter.

Besides the bees themselves, beekeepers who requeen in the spring also gain some advantages from this timing. Early in the season, colony populations are generally smaller, making it easier to locate the old queen. Also, if a new honey flow is just starting, the bees will tend to be on their best behavior and not as apt to behave defensively. During a honey flow, adult bees get locked into foraging. A colony will put up with a lot of beekeeper activity during a honey flow. The bees are focused on foraging and colony growth and are less apt to sting.

However, there are a couple of downsides to requeening in the spring.  The first is that spring weather can be turbulent, meaning that rainy and cool weather can damper a beekeeper’s ability to work the bees. A preordered queen’s date may not match the ideal weather for opening and work with a colony. Summer weather, in general, is more stable.  Running into adverse weather can also actually affect queen acceptance. If a new queen is introduced right before a long spell of inclement weather, the bees could go hungry and agitated, hampering the acceptance of the new queen.

Another downside to spring requeening is the possibility of additional queens or queens-in-the-making in the hive during requeening.  Beekeepers who requeen in spring, like all beekeepers, should always be on the lookout for natural queen cells during the requeening process. These natural queen cells are more apt to be present during the spring than any other season and must be eliminated while requeening.  One or more new and feisty virgin queens emerging from one of these queen cells is the last thing that a beekeeper wants to see during requeening. No one wants a newly purchased and precious queen having to deal with a battle royale before she even gets started!

How Long Can I Keep a Queen in its Cage?

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When you receive a queen bee, ideally, you want to be ready to install her as quickly as possible. Queen honeybees are not meant to live in cages over the long haul.

Sometimes, however, situations can prevent you from installing a queen immediately. Perhaps it’s challenging weather, an unanticipated work issue, family matters, or some other urgent situation that can prevent you from installing a queen upon arrival.

If this is the case, it’s good to know that with the proper care and handling, a queen bee can live in a cage with attendants for a week or even more with consideration. This is not ideal, however. The longer the queen remains in a cage outside of a colony, the longer she is exposed to the dangers of being outside of a colony of bees. She also potentially begins to lose her pheromone signature, impairing acceptance.

At Wildflower Meadows, we have generally found that queens that spend an extended period in queen cages can sometimes tend not to perform as well over the long haul. This could be due to several factors, such as:

  • The ability of just a few attendant bees in the cage to control the temperature and humidity is not close to that of a full beehive. Therefore, the queen bee is subject to broader and more potentially damaging temperature fluctuations when in a cage than inside a colony.
  • While acceptable, the quality of the candy in the cage is nowhere near as nutritious as the natural food in a colony.
  • Sometimes, the attendant bees can become stressed or die, limiting their ability to care for the queen.
  • There is no water in the cage, so the bees and queen can suffer from dehydration.
  • Other unknown stresses of being caged could affect the well-being of the queen and attendants in the cage.

So, what can be done to mitigate these potential problems?

First, if you can’t install your queen immediately, you want to store your queen at room temperature and in a relatively dark and calm place in your house. There should be no drafts or extended exposure to sunlight. You must also keep the queen away from household chemicals, especially pesticides.

Then, twice daily—in the morning and evening—give the cage a drop of clean water. You can apply the water to the cage with your fingertip so that some water drips in. The attendant bees will lap up the water. Don’t give any more water than this. This is not a case where more is better. Too much water can chill the bees or melt the candy, creating a mess and possibly stressing or even damaging the queen bee.

Keep an eye on the attendants. If more than one or two die, you may need to remove them and add new attendants to the cage. This is a tricky proposition and one you should avoid.

If you need to store the queens for more than a few days, the ideal way to hold queens is to establish a queen bank inside a strong, healthy colony. This is the tried-and-true way of storing and maintaining queens.

Again, your objective should always be to install and introduce a queen as soon as possible. The colony is her home, and laying eggs in a healthy colony is her calling and way of life!

Why Do Beekeepers Need to Purchase Queen Bees?

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While each of the honeybees in a hive plays their own role, the queen bee is unique in that she influences the behavior and performance of an individual colony in a way that no other single bee can. She is the genetic backbone of the colony—and all the bees, as her offspring, carry her genetic signature.

As a result, beekeepers know that they can control the performance of a colony to a significant extent simply by managing the quality of the queen bee in the hive. There are two pieces to assessing a queen’s quality: the performance of her offspring, and of course, her own performance. Both are vital.*

For assessing a queen’s offspring’s performance, a beekeeper commonly considers the following:

  • Disease Resistance: Is the colony robust and able to withstand diseases such as American foulbrood?
  • Temperament: Are the bees gentle and easy to work with?
  • Honey Production: In conditions of good nectar flow, are the bees making a considerable amount of honey?
  • Honey Consumption: Does the colony save its stores or consume large amounts of honey, requiring extra supplemental feeding?
  • Population Control: Does the colony have the desired population at the right time of year?
  • Mite Resistance: Does the queen carry the VSH trait to control the spread of parasitic mites?
  • Swarming Tendency: Does the colony seem to want to swarm more than normal?
  • Overwintering Success: Does the colony appear very weak in the spring?

In assessing a queen’s own performance, the beekeeper also considers the queen herself:

  • Laying Performance: Is the queen laying enough eggs and in a tight brood pattern?
  • Quantity of Drones: Is the queen laying more drones than worker eggs?
  • Health: Is the queen injured?
  • Age: Is she young and vigorous, or aging and on the way out?
  • Presence: Is she even in the hive, or did she perish somewhere along the way?

So, why do beekeepers need to purchase queen bees? The first reason is to manage the genetics of the offspring. The second is to manage the performance of the queen herself.

The third, and perhaps most common reason for purchasing a queen bee, is to enable the beekeeper to easily divide or split an existing colony. All new colonies need queens. The easiest, most reliable, and most surefire way for a beekeeper to obtain a quality queen of known genetics is to purchase that queen from a reputable queen breeder.

*With an instrumentally inseminated breeder queen, the queen’s own performance is more important than the offspring’s because the genetics in the offspring are already largely predetermined due to the selection of the parents.

How Often Should a Beekeeper Requeen?

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While queen honeybees can theoretically live for up to five years, they rarely do. As queen bees age, their productivity declines. A three-year-old queen is generally less prolific than a two-year-old queen. Even a two-year-old queen can sometimes be less prolific than a queen who’s only one year old – which is why many beekeepers prefer to requeen annually.

Many beekeeping authorities recommend requeening colonies after a certain point in the queen’s life, usually after one year. The theory is that by replacing an older queen, a colony will be more robust and successful, due to a younger queen’s greater productivity. A younger queen creates a higher volume of bees than an older queen, which results in more bees for pollination and greater honey production, and also more bees for expanding colony counts.

Young queen bees also tend to have a stronger pheromone signature. When a young queen’s powerful pheromones are present, a beehive knows it has a quality, vigorous queen in hand. As a result, the colony sees little need to replace her. Likely for the same reason, colonies with younger queens are less likely to swarm than colonies with older queens. A young queen seems to set a beehive at ease and enable the bees in the hive to relax and focus on the business at hand.

Even though requeening annually has its benefits, there are equally strong arguments against this practice. The policy of requeening every colony, every year fails to consider the very real possibility that an existing queen may be a superstar with several years of performance left. What’s the benefit of replacing a proven winner with a new queen, that may or may not match the existing queen’s excellent performance?

Regular requeening can also become costly – in terms of both the cost of the new queen itself, as well as the time it takes to find and introduce a new queen each year. Plus, there is always the risk that the introduction of a new queen may not even be successful, leaving the colony without any queen at all!

At Wildflower Meadows, we believe it makes the most sense to consider each colony on a case-by-case basis. When deciding whether to requeen, it’s important to assess whether the existing queen is still laying a quality brood pattern. A queen on the decline in her later years will typically begin to show a “spotty” brood pattern, rather than the tight, circular brood pattern of a young, vigorous queen. Any queen with a consistently spotty brood pattern is always a candidate for requeening. Most queens that are more than two or three years old are also excellent candidates for requeening. Queens of that age are not far away from an almost certain drop-off in productivity, making requeening the best decision for maintaining a strong, productive hive.