The Father of Modern Beekeeping

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As we approach Fathers’ Day at Wildflower Meadows, we want to take this opportunity to honor the “Father of Modern Beekeeping.”

François Huber (1750-1831) was a Swiss naturalist and entomologist who and widely considered the father of modern beekeeping.  Huber’s most important contribution to beekeeping was the development of the “leaf hive.” This hive allowed him to observe the behavior of honey bees without disturbing the hive. The leaf hive consisted of a series of frames that could be removed from the hive without destroying the comb. This allowed Huber to study the development of the brood, the production of honey and wax, and the behavior of the queen bee.

Before François Huber invented the leaf hive in 1789, beekeeping was a much more difficult and haphazard practice. Beekeepers used a variety of hives, including skeps, log gums, and box hives. These hives were all fixed-comb hives, meaning that the bees built their combs directly on the walls of the hive. This made it difficult for beekeepers to inspect the hive or harvest the honey without destroying the comb.

The invention of the leaf hive by François Huber was a major breakthrough in beekeeping. The leaf hive was a movable-frame hive, meaning that the frames could be removed from the hive without destroying the comb. This made it much easier for beekeepers to inspect the hive, harvest the honey, and manage the colony.

Huber’s work paved the way for the development of modern beekeeping methods. His leaf hive was the precursor to the Langstroth hive, which is the most widely used hive today. Langstroth hive is based on the same principle as the leaf hive, with frames that can be removed from the hive without destroying the comb. This allows beekeepers to inspect the hive and manage the colony without harming the bees.

Huber’s observations revolutionized our understanding of honey bees. He showed that the queen bee is the only female that can lay eggs, and that the drones (male bees) are only used for reproduction. He also showed that the worker bees are responsible for all of the other tasks in the hive, such as gathering food, caring for the young, and building the comb.

Huber’s work was published in two volumes, “New Observations on Bees” (1809) and “Further Observations on Bees” (1814). These books were translated into many languages and became essential reading for beekeepers around the world.  Today’s beekeepers owe much to François Huber. His pioneering research laid the foundation for modern beekeeping and helped to make honey bees a valuable part of our ecosystem.

How Long Can a Honeybee Colony Live When a Queen Dies?

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The honeybee hive is a complex and intricate society, with each member playing a vital role in its survival. At the heart of this society lies the queen bee, the sole female capable of reproduction. Her presence is essential for the colony’s continued existence, as she lays the eggs that will give rise to the next generation of bees.

When a queen bee dies, the hive enters a state of turmoil. The queen’s pheromones, which regulate the colony’s behavior, begin to fade, and the worker bees become agitated and confused. This disruption can have a devastating impact on the hive’s ability to function effectively.

In response to the queen’s demise, the worker bees initiate the emergency queen rearing process. They select a few worker bee larvae, typically between five and eight days old, and begin feeding them royal jelly, a special nutrient-rich food that is typically reserved for the queen. This special diet stimulates the larvae’s development and transforms them into potential queens.

The worker bees construct special queen cells, which are elongated and hang vertically from the honeycomb. Each potential queen develops within her own queen cell. Once the queens reach maturity, they emerge from their cells and engage in a series of “virgin flights” to mate with male drones.

The success of the emergency queen rearing process is crucial for the hive’s survival. If the new queen fails to mate or if she is killed by the other queens, the colony will eventually die out. This is because worker bees are sterile and cannot lay fertilized eggs, which are necessary for the production of female worker bees.

In some cases, the emergency queen rearing process may fail, and the colony may become queenless. In these situations, beekeeper intervention may be necessary to save the hive. Beekeepers can introduce a new mated queen from a reputable source, such as Wildflower Meadows, or they can combine the queenless colony with another colony that already has a queen.

Without a queen, the colony’s population will gradually decline as older bees die off and there are no new replacements. The colony may also become more susceptible to diseases and pests. In some cases, the worker bees may start to lay their own unfertilized eggs, which will only produce male drones. This will further hasten the colony’s demise.  Usually a colony can survive no longer than a few months without a queen.

The loss of a queen bee is a critical event for a honeybee hive. If the hive is able to successfully rear a new queen, it can survive and continue to thrive. However, if the queen rearing process fails or if the colony remains queenless for too long, the hive will eventually perish. Beekeeper intervention can play a vital role in helping queenless colonies survive, but ultimately, the fate of a hive without a queen is a delicate balance between chance and intervention.

Unveiling the Mystery of Honeybee Queen Piping: A Symphony of Communication

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The intricate world of the honeybee holds many secrets, and among them lies the fascinating phenomenon of queen piping. This high-pitched sound, produced by both virgin and mated queens, plays a crucial role in the colony’s social dynamics and queen succession.

A Cry for Attention:

Fully developed virgin queens engage in a series of vibratory signals known as “quacking” while still inside their queen cells. This acoustic communication serves as a declaration of their existence and readiness to compete for the coveted role of the colony’s queen. Once they emerge, these queens transition to emitting “tooting” sounds, continuing their vocal pronouncements to the colony.

Mated queens, though not as vocal, may also be heard piping briefly after being introduced to a new hive. This act is believed to be a form of introduction, informing the worker bees of their arrival and establishing their claim as the colony’s rightful ruler.

Queenly Battle Cry or Call to the Colony?

The exact purpose of queen piping remains a subject of debate. Traditionally, it was interpreted as a battle cry, a challenge issued to other queens in the hive, announcing their presence and readiness to fight for dominance.

However, recent research suggests a more nuanced understanding. Scientists now believe that piping is primarily a signal directed at the worker bees rather than a declaration directed at rival queens. The queen uses this vocalization to announce her presence, assert her fitness, and ultimately sway the workers to support her reign.

A Queenly Symphony in the Wildflower Meadows Shipping Room:

Beekeepers frequently encounter piping when dealing with multiple queens at once. During queen banking, where numerous queens are housed together in a confined space, the piping becomes a noticeable and rather loud symphony. Here at Wildflower Meadows, as we prepare orders, the queens in the shipping room become aware of each other’s presence, leading to a chorus of piping that intensifies with their number.

Even during transportation, the piping persists. As the queens journey to UPS, their collective calls fill the air. However, once separated during the shipping process, the piping ceases, signifying the end of their temporary communication network.

A Glimpse into the Queen’s Mind:

While the precise meaning of queen piping remains under investigation, it undoubtedly plays a crucial role in the queen’s communication strategies. Whether it’s a declaration of dominance or a call for worker support, this vocal behavior offers a valuable window into the complex social dynamics of the honeybee hive. As our understanding of this phenomenon evolves, we gain a deeper appreciation for the intricate communication systems that underpin the success of these remarkable creatures.

Honeybee Larvae

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When we think of a honeybee, we typically envision the familiar image of a buzzing, pollen-laden insect diligently collecting nectar from flowers. However, behind this seemingly ordinary creature lies an extraordinary transformation, a journey through a series of distinct stages that showcase the wonders of metamorphosis.

Unlike many animals that develop gradually from birth to adulthood, honeybees undergo a complete metamorphosis, a process that involves radical changes in form and behavior. This incredible transformation begins with an unassuming egg, a tiny white pearl measuring about 1.5 millimeters in length.

After three days of incubation, the egg hatches, revealing a legless, grub-like larva. This seemingly rudimentary creature holds the potential for remarkable growth and development. Over the next seven days, the larva consumes a voracious amount of food, primarily a protein-rich liquid secreted by young nurse bees. This diet fuels a staggering growth spurt, leading to a 1,500-fold increase in size.  This is comparable to a mouse transforming into a german shepherd in seven days!

As the larva grows, it undergoes six molts, shedding its outer skin to accommodate its expanding body. Unlike the adult bee, the larva lacks an excretory system, and its waste is stored within its body. This waste will later be expelled when the larva transitions into the pupa stage.

After approximately seven days, the well-fed larva spins a silken cocoon and enters the pupa stage, a period of remarkable transformation. During this stage, the larva’s body undergoes a complete reorganization, developing wings, legs, and other adult structures. The larva’s digestive system is also modified, allowing for the passage of waste.

After about 11 days within the cocoon, the pupa emerges as a fully formed adult bee. This remarkable transformation marks the culmination of the honeybee’s metamorphosis, a journey that has taken it from a tiny egg to a buzzing, productive member of a complex social colony.

How to Hold and Mark a Queen Honeybee

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At Wildflower Meadows, we regularly need to hold and handle the queens we are raising. For example, queens must be caught and put into their traveling cages. In addition, they need to be held for marking, and sometimes, they need to be placed above or below a queen excluder for various reasons.

Beekeepers, especially new beekeepers, often wonder how to do this without damaging the queen or getting stung.

Handling a queen requires a bit of dexterity and concentration underneath abundant care and compassion for the queen herself. The beekeeper must always be careful. From a queen honeybee’s perspective, we beekeepers are clumsy giants that can injure fragile body parts with the slightest erroneous move. The queen honeybee is a small and delicate creature—and we should never forget that.

A queen honeybee has three main parts to her body: the head, thorax, and abdomen. If a queen is to be handled, the beekeeper must know that the most robust part of her body is her thorax, which is the hard, dark area that separates her head from her abdomen. On the other hand, the most sensitive parts of the queen are her head and her long, delicate abdomen. A queen bee’s abdomen is soft, fragile, and filled with all the queen’s vital reproductive parts. When a beekeeper mishandles a queen, it is most often because they apply pressure on the abdomen. This must be avoided. The best place, by far, to hold a queen is by her thorax.

Surprisingly, a queen’s wings are sturdy. Holding her by her wings is the next best way to grasp a queen. A skilled beekeeper can safely pick up a queen by grasping her two wings together without putting pressure on any other body part. This is typically how our beekeepers here at Wildflower Meadows handle queens for marking, as it leaves the thorax exposed for the mark.

If a queen bee is picked up by the wings, she may start to squirm. However, if she is given a soft and comfortable surface to place her legs on, she will hold her body still and relax. When marking a queen, we typically grasp the two wings, then encourage the queen bee to rest her legs either on one of our other fingers (usually the ring finger) or on our thigh. Once her feet are grabbing onto something, her demeanor becomes relaxed. It is then easy to mark her thorax.

For beekeepers who want to handle their queen bees for marking, a trick of the trade is to learn to pick up a queen with one’s nondominant hand (the left hand for a right-hander). This frees the writing hand to draw the mark with greater dexterity and control. Once the queen is marked, placing her into a cage is relatively straightforward by guiding the top half of her body into the hole of the cage. If over half of her body is already through the hole, she almost always naturally follows through and enters on her own when released.

Queen honeybees are exceptionally gentle and non-aggressive with beekeepers. For all intents and purposes, they don’t seem to ever want to sting people. Even though a queen bee has a stinger, which she doesn’t hesitate to use against other queen bees, the likelihood of her stinging a beekeeper is almost zero. We have beekeepers here at Wildflower Meadows who have handled tens of thousands of queens and have not ever been stung a single time by a queen honeybee!

Three Sizes of Honey Supers – Which is Right for You?

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In beekeeping, the boxes placed on top of a beehive used exclusively for honey collection are called “supers.” There are three sizes of honey supers commonly available: shallow, medium, and deep. The only difference between the sizes is their height, which affects how much honey they can store. Supers are can be made smaller than regular deep bee boxes, meaning that they weigh less and are easier to maneuver. Shallow supers are 5-5/8” in height; medium supers are 6-5/8”; and deep supers are 9-5/8”. Respectively, each size can hold approximately 30, 50, and 70-80 pounds of honey.

Shallow supers are the smallest of the three sizes, and they are typically used for collecting comb honey. Comb honey is honey that is still in its natural honeycomb cells. Shallow supers are also a good choice for beekeepers who are just starting out, as they are easier to manage than medium or deep supers.

Medium supers are the most popular size of super, and they are a good all-around choice for beekeepers. They are large enough to store a good amount of honey, but they are still relatively easy to manage. Medium supers are also a solid choice for beekeepers who want to produce both comb honey and extracted honey.

Deep supers are the largest of the three sizes, and they are typically used for brood rearing. Brood rearing is the process of raising new bees. Deep supers are also a good choice for beekeepers who want to produce a lot of honey, as they can store a large amount. However, deep supers are also the heaviest of the three sizes, so they can be difficult to manage for some beekeepers.

The best way to choose the right size of super for your needs is to consider your own needs and limits. If you are just starting out, a shallow super is a good choice. If you are looking for a versatile super that can be used for both comb honey and extracted honey, a medium super is a good choice. And if you want to produce a lot of honey, a deep super is a good choice.

Here are some additional factors to consider when choosing the right size of super:

  • The size of your hive
  • The type of honey you want to produce
  • Your own physical strength

Supers are a crucial piece of equipment in beekeeping, and they can be used in a variety of combinations based on your needs and preferences. The most common arrangement for a basic hive is 2 deep boxes, placing the honey supers on top for honey collection. The second most common arrangement is 1 deep box on the bottom paired with 1 medium, with the honey supers on top for honey production.

Protecting the Precious Brood: A Beekeeper’s Guide to Keeping Bees Warm

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For beekeepers, the sight of a hive teeming with life is a source of immense joy. But within that bustling colony lies a hidden vulnerability: the brood, the delicate larvae and pupae that represent the future of the hive. Though tucked away in capped cells, these seemingly motionless forms are very much alive, and their well-being hinges on one crucial factor: warmth.

Imagine a cozy 93 degrees Fahrenheit, a temperature that cradles the brood in perfect comfort. Dip below 80 degrees, and the tiny bodies begin to suffer. The cold saps their energy, hinders their development, and in the worst-case scenario, chills them to death.

This chilling tragedy forces the bees into a frantic cleanup operation, removing the fallen brood from the hive. It’s a gut-wrenching loss, not just in terms of bees, but also in the wasted energy and time expended by the colony.

Late winter and early spring are the most perilous times for the brood. The queen, eager for the warmth of spring, ramps up egg-laying, but the colony’s population is still recovering from the harsh winter. A sudden cold spell or even a careless inspection by a well-meaning beekeeper can send temperatures plummeting, putting the fragile brood at risk.

So, how can beekeepers be the guardians of warmth? Here are some key tips:

  • Resist the urge to inspect on chilly days. When temperatures dip below 50 degrees, keep the disruptions to a minimum. Let the bees focus on maintaining their internal furnace.
  • Quick peeks only. If an inspection is absolutely necessary, make it swift and minimize exposing the brood to the cold. Remember, every second counts.
  • Keep the brood tucked in. Don’t leave frames of brood outside the hive any longer than necessary, especially in windy conditions. Let the warmth of the bee cluster be their haven.
  • Ventilation is key. Proper ventilation allows moisture to escape, preventing condensation that can drip onto the brood and turn into a deadly freeze. Fresh air, yes, but frosty drafts, no.

By following these simple steps, beekeepers can become champions of the brood, ensuring that the hive’s future generation emerges strong and vibrant. Remember, a little vigilance goes a long way in keeping those precious bees warm and the colony buzzing with life.

Expanding Your Beekeeping: The Benefits of a Second Bee Yard

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As an experienced beekeeper, you’ve nurtured your hives and witnessed the wonder of their industriousness. But as your bee population grows, you may find yourself contemplating the merits of establishing a second apiary (bee yard).

One compelling reason to establish a second apiary is to alleviate competition for nectar and pollen sources among your hives. When too many bees are concentrated in a single area, they may become stressed and engage in robbing behavior, where they invade other hives to steal their resources.  By distributing your colonies across two locations, you effectively reduce the strain on local nectar and pollen sources. This allows individual hives to thrive and gather more resources, ultimately leading to increased honey production. Studies have shown that maintaining smaller colonies in multiple apiaries yields higher honey yields compared to a single, large apiary.

A second apiary offers a crucial layer of flexibility and resilience in managing your bee population. If one apiary becomes temporarily unavailable due to pesticide spraying, neighbor complaints, or unforeseen circumstances, the other apiary can act as a reliable backup. This safeguards your beekeeping operation and ensures a continuous supply of honey.

When selecting a site for your second bee yard, consider a location that is at least 2-3 miles away from your original apiary. This distance minimizes the risk of bees from one apiary drifting back to the other, causing confusion and potential conflict. Additionally, the location should be within a reasonable travel distance to facilitate regular inspections and maintenance.

Acquiring a suitable location for your second apiary can be achieved through various means. Networking with friends and acquaintances may yield potential sites. Groves and orchards often welcome beekeepers for pollination services. Consider placing advertisements in farm journals or online agricultural forums to reach a wider audience.

Landowners may be more receptive to hosting your beehives if you offer honey in exchange for the use of their property. This mutually beneficial arrangement not only provides landowners with a valuable commodity but also demonstrates your commitment to maintaining a harmonious relationship.

Establishing a second bee yard marks an exciting step in your beekeeping journey. By diversifying your apiary locations, you can reap the rewards of increased honey production, enhanced flexibility, and reduced risks. Embrace the challenge of expanding your beekeeping horizons and witness the flourishing of your bees.

Valentine’s Day in the Drone Congregation Area: Where Honeybee Queens Find Love in the Sky

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High above the honeybee hive, amidst the gentle sway of trees and the chirping of birds, lies a hidden realm known as the drone congregation area (DCA). This invisible airspace, about 100 meters wide and 15-30 meters above the ground, is a celestial love nest where virgin honeybee queens ascend to meet their destined mates.

Imagine a scene from a bee-themed rom-com. Thousands of male drones, driven by pheromones and primal instinct, gather in a swirling, buzzing cloud, eagerly awaiting their queen. The air hums with anticipation, a silent symphony of beating wings and hopeful drone hearts.

But why this elaborate aerial rendezvous? Why not mate within the cozy confines of the hive?

The answer lies in the unique biology of honeybee reproduction. A queen mates only once, and she does it with multiple drones – usually 10-20 – during a single flight. This “polyandry” ensures genetic diversity in her offspring, strengthening the colony’s resistance to diseases and environmental challenges.

So, how does this bee ballet unfold?

The Queen’s Call:

  • As a young queen emerges from the hive, her body releases a potent mix of pheromones, invisible chemical signals that announce her availability. These “queen substance” pheromones act like an irresistible perfume, beckoning drones from nearby hives.

The Drone Rendezvous:

  • Drones, equipped with special receptors for these pheromones, take flight, following the invisible scent trail like love-struck missiles. They gather in the DCA, forming a dense, swirling cloud, their excitement palpable in the buzzing symphony.

The Celestial Mating:

  • The queen, guided by the drone density, ascends into the DCA. As she flies, she releases even more pheromones, intensifying the drones’ ardor. The cloud condenses around her, forming a mesmerizing “drone comet” trailing behind her like a celestial fan.
  • Within this intimate dance, the most vigorous drones manage to mate with the queen. The mating process is swift and fatal for the drone. His endophallus, a reproductive organ, detaches inside the queen, providing her with a lifetime supply of sperm. As he falls from the sky, the remaining drones continue their pursuit, hoping for their chance at glory.

The Return of the Queen:

  • After several successful matings, the queen, now carrying the hopes of a colony, returns to the hive. She stores the collected sperm in a special organ called the spermatheca, using it throughout her life to fertilize her eggs.

The drone congregation area, though unseen by most, plays a vital role in the honeybee’s survival. It’s a testament to the intricate dance of nature, where love takes flight not in a candlelit corner, but in the vast expanse of the sky, ensuring the future of a buzzing kingdom.

What is a Walkaway Split?

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A walkaway split is a method of splitting a honeybee colony into two colonies without using a queen excluder. It is a relatively simple process that can be done by any beekeeper, even beginners.

To perform a walkaway split, start by inspecting the colony that you wish to split. Find the queen bee and make sure that she stays with the original colony.  Then remove about half of the frames from the hive. These frames should contain brood, eggs, and honey.

Transfer the frames to an empty colony. Make sure to place the frames in the same order as they were in the original hive.  After transferring the frames to the new colony, add empty frames to the original colony to replace what was taken.  Put the lid on the original colony and place it in a different location.

The new colony will now be in the location of the original colony.  Now you can introduce a new queen to the new colony.  Over the next few weeks, the bees in the new colony will begin to grow into a separate colony of their own with a new queen.

How to Use a Walkaway Split

A walkaway split can be used to increase the number of colonies in your apiary, to create a new colony from a strong colony, or to split a colony that is too large.  To use a walkaway split, you will need to choose a colony that is strong and healthy. The colony should have a well-performing queen and plenty of brood.  Once you have chosen a colony, you can start the split by following the steps outlined above.

Walkaway splits are a relatively simple way to increase the number of colonies in your apiary. They are also a good way to create a new colony from a strong colony.  They are relatively easy to create and they do not require any special equipment.  With a little care and attention, you can prepare walkaway splits to increase the number of colonies in your apiary and to create strong and healthy colonies.